The New Edwardians

The winter beckons us to think of sweaters, knitwear and covering up, because, even in a heatwave, we fashion folk think ahead. The clients for luxury fashion, and limited edition designer clothes, often try on winter during the hottest month, and flimsy summer fantasies during the coldest. Cellotape founder and Editor in Chief Michael Dye prepared his first winter story whilst many people were sweltering in cities or relaxing on the beach. The images we share with you are the result of that idea that Michael and his team created, fashion for the season ahead and fashion for chilly days, and of course clothes that require layering and warmth at their heart.

I saw the pictures and immediately thoughts of two fashion threads occurred to me that both centred around the past, each with a romantic, nostalgic, and embracing narrative yet also with a hint of individualism and the eccentric adding spice to the story. There is a hint of the unconventional and also a strength and power to these images. I thought both of the Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2012 collection, which featured both at the show, and in subsequent campaign shots by Steven Meisel, a romanticised interpretation of Edwardian trains and travel. My other link was to the extraordinary, La Folle de Chaillot, by Jean Giraudoux written in 1943 produced on the stage in 1945 with sets and costumes by the brilliant artist Christian Berard. It is set at Chez Francis a café which still exists in Place d’ Alma in Paris and the lead character, Countess Aurélie, is old enough to have been an Edwardian. I realised quickly that my viewing of the images had triggered a fresh view of winter dressing in direct contrast to quiet luxury or underplayed chic.

The pieces are not eccentric, but the styling and mood embraces bold, charismatic style. It reminds me of the latest Franck Sorbier collection is its idea of travellers, of Agatha Christie players taking centre stage, of international variations of style and culture. It again makes me think of travel. In the years since the pandemic, and with global conflicts bubbling in the background of travel planning, the idea of golden age travel, be in Art Deco ocean liners, or the glamour and possible intrigue of the Orient Express, has a fresh fascination. So, perhaps the “idea” of travel in the past is as much about dreams as reality. Stringent customs rules, flight delays, extra fees for every little thing all add to the burden and stress of travel. So, dreaming of the days when huge suitcases and many willing porters, delicious luncheons and crisp white table linens with hovering waiters, were once all part of travel isn’t so silly.

Gaze upon the Cellotape images and think of a ladies’ maid helping with that hair, the many buttons, the cascades of ruffles. See how the eccentric mixing can be pulled apart to to be simple and linear but the creative team offers surprises and unlikely juxtapositions, watch the patterns of cultures clashing, and wonder at the Edwardian ruff, and leg’o mutton sleeves not in silk taffeta but knitted. Imagine how the model strides into the space as the focus of the teams’ eyes, holding attention. Think of her at the café as the Countess Aurélie holding forth on the evils of corruption in big business, think of her stepping down the corridors of the Train Bleu to the coast on her way to crimson plush seats and sparkling crystal champagne glasses. It is always an excellent idea to imagine and escape, especially today in a world often consumed by trouble. The genius author Lesley Blanch wrote memoirs where her imagination added to the reality, and Diana Vreeland described her writing as “faction,” there’s nothing wrong with either of these extraordinary women’s view of facts and real life, indeed, who ever claimed fashion is real life?

Fashion merging real clothes with a fantastic vision, adventures unfolding in the imagination of the Cellotape team, beautiful moments captured to share with our readers and viewers, but at its heart, clothes for winter. The new season is indeed heralding new fashion thoughts, and excitement and optimism are being pulled out of the box of fashion tricks to exhilarate us. The truth is before all these beautiful images, it was simply a rail of clothes, but then it was also simply words that Jean Giraudoux used to tell his story of the woman who fought villains and won; imagination is always a necessity