November 3, 2026

Tartan Reimagined: The Barbour Way at the Saatchi Gallery

For London Fashion Week, I headed to Saatchi Gallery for Tartan Reimagined: The Barbour Way a celebration of Scottish heritage, craft and culture spread across four galleries. Bringing together fashion, tradition and the familiar comforts of British life, the exhibition offered a closer look at the brand that has become synonymous with the countryside, changing weather and generations of wearers.

Barbour is a true British staple, built to last. I still remember being around six years old, clomping around in my mum’s high heels with her Barbour coat swamping me. There was something luxurious about it, but comforting too. Homely, even. That’s stayed with me ever since. For me, the memory that makes Barbour feel like more than just a brand; it is something connected to a childhood, family and the small, in-between moments of everyday life.

Behind that familiar waxed jacket is a history that stretches back to 1894, when John Barbour, a Scotsman, established J Barbour & Sons in South Shields, in the North East of England. Originally supplying oilskins and other garments to protect sailors, fishermen and mariners from the harsh British weather (the typical British weather we all know and love), the brand’s origins were rooted in practicality and the need to withstand the elements. That purpose continues to shape its identity today.

While Barbour’s roots are firmly in the North East of England, its Scottish heritage is particularly visible through its tartan. In 1998, Dame Margaret and Helen Barbour collaborated with tartan specialists Kinloch Anderson to create the brand’s first exclusive tartan, Classic Tartan, replacing the generic Dress Gordon tartan previously used by the brand. Based on the Ayrshire District tartan sett, the design reflects the colours of the British countryside and the region from which the Barbour family originated. Tartan is not simply a pattern of checks; its individual sett is created through a specific arrangement of woven threads, making each design distinctive.

Words by Laura Robinson

At the exhibition, tartan was reimagined through a contemporary lens, demonstrating how a traditional textile can evolve without losing its connection to heritage. The pattern is instantly recognisable, but its colourways, scale and application can transform how it is worn. From subtle linings and trims to more expressive fashion pieces, tartan can move between the practical and the statement-making, offering a sense of identity that feels both familiar and new. Seeing how Dame Margaret and Helen Barbour helped shape this distinctive design made me appreciate how a traditional pattern can become such an integral part of a brand’s identity, connecting its Scottish heritage with the modern wardrobe.

Barbour Re-Loved was a real highlight: a dedicated section spotlighting the brand’s high-fashion collaborations with the likes of Gucci, Erdem and Paul Smith. The immersive elements brought it all to life with live demonstrations of repairs, custom alterations and manual rewaxing happening right in front of us. Watching that craftsmanship unfold in real time was genuinely special. There is something incredibly valuable about seeing how a garment is made, repaired and maintained, rather than simply encountering it as a finished product on a shop floor. Fashion can often feel removed from the hands that create it, with the final image taking precedence over the process. Here, the exhibition encouraged visitors to slow down and appreciate the work involved. The careful repairs, the hands-on skill and the knowledge passed through generations.

The immersive experience sparked a conversation between my mum and I about our relationship we have with clothes. A wax jacket is not necessarily something you wear once and replace when it begins to show age. Its character develops over time, and its imperfections can become part of its story. It is one thing to be told that a garment is built to last, but another to witness the work that goes into keeping it in use.

Barbour’s repair and rewaxing services reflect this approach, helping to extend the life of its garments. The Re-Loved section demonstrated how an existing jacket can be given another chapter, whether through repair, customisation or collaboration. The relationship between clothing and the outdoors is central to Barbour’s identity. The British weather has a way of making outerwear an essential part of our wardrobes. One minute the sun is shining, the next we are caught in the rain, and somehow we still decide to go for that walk. Whether it is a muddy countryside path, a windswept coastal route or a quick stroll through the park, the Barbour jacket has long been associated with getting outside and embracing the elements. You may even wear it with wellies on a muddy walk, then throw it over jeans and boots for a coffee or a trip into town. And where better to finish a day than the pub?

Then there was The Barbour Pub, another nod to British culture because let’s face it, there’s a pub on every corner over here. Tucked inside the gallery, the immersive pop-up captured that unmistakably sociable British spirit perfectly, offering a space that felt familiar, welcoming and distinctly British. Yet the installation also prompted a thought about the changing pub landscape. With pubs across the country facing closures and financial pressures, these spaces are more than somewhere to grab a drink. They are meeting places and community hubs, where friends and family can come together, switch off from the digital world and and enjoy real moments with real people.

Perhaps that is what makes Barbour so enduring. It is not just about the clothing itself, but the memories, places and experiences that gather around it. From countryside walks and unpredictable British weather to evenings spent in the pub with friends and family, the clothing has become part of a way of life that values practicality, connection and the simple pleasure of being together.

Tartan Reimagined: The Barbour Way offered more than a celebration of a recognisable British brand. It brought together the history of craftsmanship, the practicality of outdoor clothing and the cultural details that make Barbour feel so familiar. From the distinctive tartan to the hands-on repair demonstrations, the exhibition highlighted the value of understanding where our clothes come from, how they are made and why they deserve to be kept.

Walking through the galleries, I found myself thinking back to that little girl wearing her mum’s oversized Barbour coat. Years later, the garment still represents something familiar and comforting, but the exhibition offered a new perspective on why that feeling has lasted. A well-made piece of clothing can carry memories, connect generations and continue to find a place in our everyday lives.

And perhaps that is the beauty of Barbour: a coat made for the outdoors, shaped by British weather, but equally at home in the pub, on a country walk or passed down through a family. Some things are made to last, and some memories are too.