Tony talks about Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani created a new way of seeing fashion for men and women, his classic yet thoroughly modern interpretation of tailoring, his use of colour and his talent for red carpet dressing changed fashion, something not many designers are able to do. He established a luxury global brand which many have tackled but few with the success of Giorgio Armani.
Armani also understood the value of celebrity endorsements from footballers to actors. David Beckham or Brad Pitt, their association with the product was a vital ingredient to building of the Armani brand.
Giorgio Armani was born in Piacenza on the 11th of July 1934, after 2 years at medical school he took up photography which was interrupted by his military obligations. In 1957 he joined the department store La Rinascente as a window dresser eventually becoming a junior buyer. By 1961 he is ready to take on the role of designer at Cerruti and begin an extended period of freelancing behind other labels.
By the early 1970’s he had worked freelance with Nino Cerruti, Allegri, Bagutta and Hilton, amongst others. These companies covered a wide range from shirts to tailoring and leather wear and at the same time he was also styling collections and working on womenswear. In 1966 he met Sergio Galeotti who encouraged him, and perhaps also gave him confidence, so that they eventually took an office, and then in July 1975 finally registered the trademark name “Giorgio Armani”. The true story is they sold a Volkswagen Beetle car to set up the business, although the amount raised varies from $700 upwards.
The first collections launched under the Armani name for Spring/Summer 1976 for menswear, and afterwards, for womenswear. They made clear the Armani signature of dressing with ease, yet style and chic; they also received magnificent press coverage and acclaim. Comfortable elegance and a new mode of more lightly constructed tailoring blurred the gender line and offered women a modern way of dressing. Armani ripped much of the stuffing and structure out of tailoring whilst still using the principles and rigour of the craft. It reflected the key pieces women covet from the traditional masculine wardrobe. Armani introduced new ways of layering and mixing pieces which he had already been developing in his catwalk styling for various labels. He also focussed on a muted colour palette which was tonal and subtle, if a herringbone was in beige and cream, the shirt would be in oyster, the trousers in a coordinating pinstripe, and so on. It was also a colour palette difficult to emulate in cheap fabrics, making customers want the original not the copies.
Armani continued to work behind other labels, but his introduction into America in 1976/77 is enthusiastically received and licensing, manufacturing and distribution deals further strengthen the brand.
In 1979 Le Collezioni for men is established, and the diffusion line Mani for women is also launched. These are followed by Armani Junior, Emporio Armani and Armani Jeans in 1981, whilst fragrance licensing is started in 1980 resulting in his first fragrance, Armani Donna in 1982.
This follows on from the outstanding success in 1980 of his wardrobe for Richard Gere in “American Gigolo” making Armani a key US fashion brand.
Although professional triumph follows a consistent path through these years, personal loss follows in 1985 when Sergio Galeotti dies. Mr Armani, an intensely private man continues to develop, innovate, design, and expand, in spite of rumours and speculation that he might retire or leave the company.
His family and close friends who work with him include his nieces; Roberta started at 16 with Emporio Armani in New York and has since 1990 been working in PR and vip client liaisons, and Silvana who works on several collections in the design studio.
The front rows at Armani shows are always star studded and cover the gamut; Tina Turner, Sophia Loren or Dita von Teese, and clients like Tom Cruise and Cate Blanchett are happy to endorse the brand. Yet Armani lived a quiet life away from the studio and catwalk; he was rarely seen on the red carpet with his clients.
Taking the name and the brand ever more global in 1987 three Armani boutiques open in Japan, and eyewear and hosiery are added to the collection of elements within the Armani repertoire. Fine items for interiors are launched in 1989 and A/X Armani Exchange launches in SoHo New York in 1991 featuring less expensive more “street” clothing with a sportier edge.
In 2000 Le Collezioni and Mani are subsumed into Armani Collezioni, sometimes referred to as “Black Label” which focuses the main collections in a different mood and also focuses the number of collections down into Giorgio Armani, Armani Collezioni, Emporio Armani, Armani Jeans and A/X Armani Exchange. In 2001 the Armani make-up collection is launched alongside Armani Casa. The celebrities showing the power of his vision include Matt Damon and Ricky Martin, and for the film “The Dark Knight” Christian Bale is Batman out of his cape wearing Armani.
Armani Prive is first shown in Paris at Haute Couture in 2002, it was his Alta Moda, Italian couture, the distillation of his most elaborate pieces from ready to wear. It was joined later by made to measure for men and from 2009 Armani Hotels and residences begin to open.
At the core of the business though are the clothes, during the hundreds of award ceremonies and red carpet events, through literally dozens of movies, leading ladies and leading men learnt to rely on Armani to help them to look good in every shot.
His clients include Claudia Cardinale, Ann Hathaway, Jodie Foster, Michelle Pfeiffer, and Sharon Stone, even Lady Gaga.Victoria Beckham and Cristiano Reynaldo stop traffic in their Armani underwear advertising.
Exhibitions at The Guggenheim New York 2000 and the Royal Academy London 2003 offer the public a view of a lifetimes work. Late in 2009 Armani expanded the board of the company he owned and founded as if shifting away from family but continued to be hands on with the day to day design and philosophy of the house.
He found time for sport throughout his career, he was President of the Olimpia Milano Basketball team and designed and worked with football, winter Olympics, and other sport events across the world.
He remained hands on until the final moment, hints of successors were dropped but the truth is his vision from top to toe, from casting to label was his. Although recently Leo Dell’Orco has been recognised by Armani himself as his right-hand man, appearing with him at fashion shows to represent the brand.
Giorgio Armani formulated a new type of designer back in the days when he created his company; one of clear vision and one who has built and moulded a vast empire to mirror that vision. Tom Ford at Gucci and Christopher Bailey at Burberry, amongst many others, followed his example, but Giorgio Armani led the way. He stopped appearing at the close of in 2025 and was frail but indomitable, still checking each model before they appeared on the runway. “We shall not see his like again” is a platitude which is totally true in his case.
Long after his departure we understand what is meant by “very Armani,” as his was surely a unique contribution to fashion history.
Words by Tony Glenville
CREDITS:
Fashion has lost one of its most influential visionaries: Giorgio Armani, the founder and driving spirit of the Armani Group, has passed away on 4th September 2025, Milan.
Photographer: Darren Gerrish
Words: Tony Glenville
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