Monochrome
The power of black and white in fashion, and of course in photography, is at the centre of style right now. Irving Penn and Richard Avedon both have exhibitions and books out at this very moment, and the feeling for graphic monochrome as both a classic and a modern definition of fashion, is strongly in the air. It is fascinating that even after the arrival of colour photography, and across the following decades its development and technical improvements, black and white continued, for many great photographers, to be their preferred choice.
The images Cellotape’s team present here distill all the elements of this fashionable reexamination of the power of black and white. Both the individual models, and the shots focussing directly on them, as well as the group shots demonstrate exactly why this graphic editing brings both power and drama to the images. The outlines, the shapes, the linear constructions, and silhouettes are never the same in each story across the decades of this particular approach to recording and presenting fashion. The way the fabric and each garment moves is captured in its own special way, each hair style, eye makeup or shoe responds to the camera in black and white with a sharpness and high-definition impact that is one hundred percent its own.
Who are these women, where exactly are they, why are they gathered together, how did they meet, and indeed are they going somewhere specific, and if so, where? Myriad questions come tumbling out regarding the narrative behind these wonderful fashion images. The lack of colour makes the story even more timeless and stronger and makes us wonder about these women as figures in an urban landscape. This might be where perhaps a plot is devised, a deal will be made, or a future intrigue will be finalised. It may be recently arranged or a long time in the planning and arrangement, but we are watching them.
The lack of lustre and shine, the fabric surfaces overlapping and enwrapping each model, the severity of the styling, the layering of chic and hard elegance is about an aloof power of dress that is timeless in its reference from Art Deco, through 1990’s minimalism, and through to today. It’s fashion for women in control, it’s fashion without fuss, clutter or unnecessary details and extras. It’s about focus, success, and the shattering of not only glass ceilings but the woman who edits, who discards and who knows exactly what she requires out of clothes.
If I speak of this story with respect and love, it’s because I love and respect these images. Taking away, discarding and editing are virtues in my fashion style book. It’s also amongst the most diQicult stories to work on since there is nowhere to hide. No elaborate location, no props, no layering of necklaces or just adding a little something extra. In fact, it is stepping back and regarding the model and saying “enough”; its stopping adding, and it is each and every person in the team doing this, from the flick of a makeup brush to the wave of a comb. From the casting to the cropping, from the first piece placed on the rail, to the moment the team walk away from the street, this story is about deep expertise and very hard focussed work.
Narrative in black and white from Rita Hayworth or Bette Davis to The Artist of 2023, from Fellini and Max Ophuls to Ripley in 2024, we know the power of this classic choice is unending. Yet at the same time it is so demanding, it is about perfection and about sharpness of eye from everyone involved. Monochrome allows for no mistakes, yet it’s telling a story as colour never can. The narrative, the story telling, the engagement of the viewer is at its most powerful.
These images are why many of us work in fashion, choosing and creating a story that is diQicult, demanding and time consuming, but ultimately satisfying. It is brilliant professionals using monochromatics to relate a story that compels you to stop and look.
Words by Tony Glenville

Left: Hazuki wearing Coat: LITHIUM & Blouse: CLIIN, Right: Maco wearing Coat: LITHIUM, Skirt: THETHE & Belt: CLIIN

Above: Maco wearing Coat: LITHIUM, Skirt: THETHE & Belt: CLIIN

Above: Hazuki wearing Coat: LITHIUM & Blouse: CLIIN

Above: Conomi wearing Jacket & Trousers: Juha

Above: Suzu wearing Coat: Interlude, Shirt & Skirt: CLIIN
Above: Suzu wearing Coat: Interlude, Shirt & Skirt: CLIIN, Sakuako wearing Coat: THETHE

Above: Sakuako wearing Coat: THETHE, and Suzu wearing Coat: Interlude, Shirt & Skirt: CLIIN
Above: Sakuako wearing Coat: THETHE, Suzu wearing Coat: Interlude, Shirt & Skirt: CLIIN, Conomi wearing Jacket & Trousers: Juha, Maco wearing Coat: LITHIUM, Skirt: THETHE & Belt: CLIIN, Hazuki wearing Coat: LITHIUM & Blouse: CLIIN

Above: Sakuako wearing Coat: THETHE, Suzu wearing Coat: Interlude, Shirt & Skirt: CLIIN, Conomi wearing Jacket & Trousers: Juha, Maco wearing Coat: LITHIUM, Skirt: THETHE & Belt: CLIIN, Hazuki wearing Coat: LITHIUM & Blouse: CLIIN
Above: Suzu wearing Coat: Interlude, Shirt & Skirt: CLIIN, Conomi wearing Jacket & Trousers: Juha, Maco wearing Coat: LITHIUM, Skirt: THETHE & Belt: CLIIN, Hazuki wearing Coat: LITHIUM & Blouse: CLIIN
CREDITS:
Photographer: Teppei Oda
Talent: Maco
Talent: Hazuki with Unknown Management
Talent: Conomi with Image Models
Talent: Suzu with Millie Management
Talent: Sakuako with Millie Management
Stylist: Kokona Tateno
Hair: Sachi Ohara
Makeup: DongBing Tou
Words: Tony Glenville