September 8, 2024

Interview with Artist Louis Barthelemy

Step into the creative realm of Louis Barthelemy, a young immensely talented and nomadic French artist. He is creating wonderful fusions of the past with an intuitive, playful, and exploratory contemporary style. Louis brings a vibrancy to his works which is incredibly captivating, evoking distant memories that capture one’s imagination. Using different mediums; often rooted in the place of origin, adding greater depth to the understanding of his works.

Interviewed by Caroline Spinks, August 2024

Cellotape: I would like to begin by asking you how you began your artistic journey?

Louis: I embarked on my artistic journey a decade ago when I left Paris and the corporate fashion world behind to move to Morocco. At the time, I was working as a textile and print designer for Christian Dior, an environment that was often speculative, calculated, and methodical. Moving to Morocco offered me the space to reflect on my personal artistic language and expression, which truly came into full bloom a few years later in Egypt. Once I settled in Cairo, I began working closely with local artisans, creating samples leading to tapestries. It was within the vastness and chaotic vibrancy of Cairo, a city brimming with life and energy and the fascinating cultural depths of Egyptian heritage, that I finally felt free and truly found myself as an artist.

Cellotape: You have described yourself as nomadic as you do not have a fixed studio. Please tell us more about this decision and how this enables you to create with more freedom.

Louis: Today, I divide my time between two homes, one in Paris and a larger space in Marrakech. These two anchors allow me to create in a familiar and comfortable environment, which is essential for the conceptualisation phase of my artwork, the initial drawings. Later, these drawings are brought to life through the ancestral crafts I encounter during my travels. As a result, my creations journey with me to the destinations where they are transformed into tangible, handcrafted artworks, whether in Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt or beyond. I’ve always had a deep love for traveling and meeting people from diverse cultural backgrounds. However, it was never a conscious decision to work in this way; it evolved naturally, especially after years of feeling confined in a conservative corporate environment, a world I’ve been running from ever since. Growing up in London, in a multicultural environment, exposed me to a rich tapestry of influences, which I’ve sought to cultivate through my travels and integrate into my artistic practice.

Cellotape: Please would you give us some examples of projects where you have used local artisans and incorporated local elements into your designs and artworks.

Louis: There are quite a few projects that I hold dear, but one recent endeavour that I particularly cherish and still in progress with a second drop this coming winter; a collection of handwoven rugs produced in Afghanistan for Ishkar. This project is special because it involved female Afghan weavers who contributed not only to the realisation of the works but also to their conceptualisation. We collaborated closely on the designs, blending their drawings with mine to create a shared interpretation of a common theme. Another notable project from the past is a series of hand-embroidered tapestries commissioned by Christian Louboutin for his flagship store in Paris. Christian Louboutin wanted to celebrate his Egyptian roots through the boutique’s design. I envisioned panels and a ceiling that paid homage to ancient Egyptian iconography, creatively infused with elements from Louboutin‘s world, such as shoes, stilettos, and sneakers. These panels were meticulously handcrafted in Cairo by local tentmakers, resulting in a vibrant and playful fusion of influences.

""I collaborated with Christian Louboutin on tapestries blending Egyptian roots and fashion.""

Cellotape: I believe that you are particularly fond of textiles: please would you expand on the materials that speak to you and why you like to use them?

Louis: I’ve been captivated by textiles and fashion for as long as I can remember. One pivotal moment was in 1992 when I saw French ice skater Surya Bonali’s outfit, designed by Christian Lacroix for the Albertville Olympics. Inspired by “Carmen” by Bizet, the outfit featured a striking red and fuchsia ensemble with intricate golden embroidery. I was enthralled by this image, and it sparked a deep fascination with fashion and Lacroix’s work.

As I delved deeper into the world of fashion, I discovered other influential couturiers like Jean-Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano. Their work inspired me to pursue a career as a fashion designer, leading me to enrol in a fashion design bachelor’s program at Central Saint Martins. This eventually led to a position at Christian Dior, where I designed prints and textile accessories.

Despite my enduring love for garments and textiles, I found that the fashion industry didn’t fully align with my personal vision. This realisation prompted me to shift my focus, using fabric as a medium for personal and artistic expression. Tapestry became my chosen medium, allowing me to explore fabric in a more intimate and creative way. My background in fashion design, however, remains crucial to my understanding of fabric manipulation. I appreciate the versatility and lightness of fabric, which complements my nomadic artistic approach.

Cellotape: We see more and more collaborations between artists, fashion houses and other brands. You have worked with some iconic brands; please would you give us some background on these collaborations and how you were able to create your designs?

Louis: Collaborations with powerful brands often come about unexpectedly, initiated when these brands reach out to me. Each project begins with in-depth discussions to understand their intentions and define a framework that respects my creative process. Once established, the collaboration becomes fluid and enriching.

I have the opportunity to engage with internal teams, management, production sites, and communication departments, which provides me with a comprehensive view of the companies industry. This exposure enables me to extend my vision to a broader audience beyond my usual platforms. What has been particularly rewarding is the brands’ openness to working with local artisans and communities from regions I cherish. These collaborations bridge diverse cultures and foster mutual learning, creating a shared creative experience that is truly fulfilling.

Cellotape: Is there a particular fashion house or brand that you would love to work with? They may be reading Cellotape!

Louis: Absolutely, I would be thrilled to collaborate with Hermès one day. I deeply admire the house’s story and integrity, as well as its unwavering commitment to quality and rich storytelling. Hermès truly embodies my vision of luxury, and I feel a strong connection to it as a traveler.

Cellotape: You have various exhibitions and projects in the future where readers may see your works. Would you please highlight a few of these?

Louis: In 2024, I will be exhibiting a new series of works on craft paper at Editions, part of Art Dubai, in collaboration with espace, a forward-thinking gallery based in Dubai and Geneva.

Additionally, in February 2025, I will showcase my work at The Louvre Abu Dhabi as part of a group exhibition titled “Queens and Kings of Africa”.

Looking ahead to 2025, I am also set to participate in the Bokhara Biennial in Uzbekistan. Moreover, I am involved in an exciting yet confidential luxury hospitality project in Paris, scheduled to open in the same year.