The Mad Hatter

What does makeup do; is it created and used to cover up, highlight, distort or mask? In these images we see how the application of a colour does all these things, how it shifts our view of masculinity and makeup from the simple concealer to the complex masque of drama.

Under the hats and contrasting with the vibrant silken scarves our models exude a confidence, and their features are accented into statements of power. It is far removed from the idea of cosmetics and beautifying, or prettiness, it’s ceremonial and ritual, its strength and attitude, its “dare me.”

Ruby and garnet or pearl, sapphire or fire opal, aquamarine, topaz, these are jewel tones linked to the colours is both silken dyes and nature. Contrasted with the rough surface and cool neutrals of the straw hats it the juxtaposition of the colours that again highlight our models faces.

The models are poised and confident with their eyebrows brushed and lips either merging into the colour or accented, they look at us directly, unsmilingly. What is so interesting is that at first glance it’s simply about colour but on examination it is so subtle and shaded and proportioned and perfect that the skills and perfection is invisible.

Take a good look at the images and their atmospheric aura and scent: narrative piles onto them from so many sources, for me it’s comedia dell’arte, Venice Carnival, Les Liasons Dangereuses, Cole Porter at the Lido, or Debureau, but the possibilités are endless. The team creates their own narrative and tosses it out into the world for the observers to dissect. Yet the story we apply may have nothing to do with the teams’ concept or discussions as they cast their models, light the studios and then pick up a makeup palette here, a huge chapeau there and then a couple of silk squares. Fashion at its best is about making magic, from the first line of a sketch to the slipping on of the garment, from the tiny snippet of ribbon to the attitude of the model.

I would say it is simple to read these beautiful images in the final analysis – Gaze on these gentlemen as they gaze back at you and invent your own scenario.

Words by Tony Glenville