May 12, 2025

Vision in Colour

Since his death aged 92 in 2009 Mr Penn, which was indeed all he was only ever called, has only increased as a legendary name in photography and especially fashion.

“According to Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue, a magazine for which Penn worked for more than 60 years, he ‘changed the way people saw the world and our perception of what is beautiful”.

As someone also once said, “Irving Penn and Phyllis Posnick changed the language of beauty.” A bee poised on the lips, moisturising lotions thrown at the models face, bloodshot eyes and thick mascara, and so many more groundbreaking images across thirty years of partnerships. Mr Penn often drew and sketched his ideas for a shoot or discussed them in depth with Phyllis Posnick. He was not easy, and ideas could be dismissed, or ignored, he is striving and indeed struggling to achieve his creative ideas took time and required exactly the right people in the studio. His range of imagery is critiqued in books and learned words, but the images remain so strong, so powerful, that words are scarcely needed to add anything to the story. The beauty images were often a full single page to accompany one focussed upon aspect of cosmetics and makeup, simply balancing the requirements of naming and evaluating the products mentioned in the accompanying copy.

On May the first an exhibition in A Coruña, Galicia Spain by the Metropolitan Museum of Art closed after showing 175 works. It seemed like to perfect moment for makeup artist Liz Martins to both pay tribute to and reflect on the contribution of Posnick and Penn to how we view the art of makeup.

Allied to these two great creative iconoclasts, and since the days of trail blazers like Richard Sharah and Linda Mason, the idea of how we present beauty has been transformed. It can swing from no makeup to painted beauty, from conventional romantic prettiness to wildly arresting images, all designed to grab the viewers attention. TV programmes such as “Glow Up” enable a broad public to discover the intricacy and skills required in the transformative powers of cosmetics in the hands of an expert. So much of this would not have been possible with the bravery of Penn and Posnick to push the boundaries of beauty imagery.

Wonder at the images here and read below Liz’s answers to why that Irving Penn and Phyllis Posnick influence continues to inspire.

Words & Interview by Tony Glenville, May 2025

Insights shared by Liz Martins:

In the world of beauty imagery, few names resonate with such enduring influence as Irving Penn and Phyllis Posnick. As a makeup artist, their work continues to shape the way I approach a face—not just in terms of aesthetics, but in the pursuit of meaning and intention. Together, Penn and Posnick elevated beauty beyond surface-level allure, crafting visuals that are as intellectually stimulating as they are visually arresting.

A Lasting Impact on Makeup and Beauty

Irving Penn’s photography is a study in precision. His lens captured every detail with such clarity that makeup couldn’t hide—it had to reveal. Under Penn’s eye, skin became sculpture, and simplicity became strength. His images ask for discipline and subtlety from the makeup artist. Every highlight and contour must serve the structure of the face and the mood of the image. There’s no room for gimmickry, only grace.

Phyllis Posnick, legendary for her conceptual editorial work at Vogue, brought a narrative sharpness to beauty storytelling. Her collaborations with photographers often involved visual riddles—editorials that fused surrealism with hyper-real beauty. In her world, makeup was not an accessory; it was a key element of the story. She made space for artistry to be bold, intentional, and emotionally resonant.

What Makes Their Work Timeless

What makes Penn and Posnick’s work timeless isn’t nostalgia—it’s relevance. Penn’s minimalist aesthetic still informs modern beauty campaigns, where less is often more. His mastery of light and shadow continues to inspire how we sculpt and define features today. Posnick’s visual daring, on the other hand, feels as current as ever—provoking, challenging, and never compromising on intelligence or style.

Together, their legacy proves that beauty lasts when it’s anchored in strong ideas. Their images don’t just show us what was fashionable—they show us what was true in the moment it was made.

What Made Me Think of Irving Penn for My Colourful Shoot?

In planning a recent colourful beauty shoot, I found myself instinctively returning to Irving Penn’s work—not despite his minimalism, but because of it. Penn’s compositions are so structurally sound, so balanced, that they can hold even the boldest elements without feeling chaotic. I wanted that same clarity: to place vibrant, expressive makeup into a frame where it could breathe, where each stroke of pigment felt deliberate and sculptural.

It wasn’t about replicating his muted tones—it was about channelling his discipline. Even in colour, his work never loses its quiet intensity. That’s what I aimed to emulate: allowing bold beauty to feel elevated, refined, and intentional, rather than loud for its own sake.

Working with Different Photographers

The photographer sets the tempo for how a makeup artist works. With someone like Penn, every product, every line, must be precise—because the camera sees everything. You work with a sculptor’s mindset. With more cinematic or lifestyle photographers, you might focus on movement, skin texture, or creating atmosphere. Each photographer asks you to flex a different creative muscle, and the most rewarding collaborations are those where your work feels like a natural extension of the image.

The Stylist’s Role in Shaping Makeup

Stylists often set the emotional tone of a shoot. Their vision—the lines of a garment, the colour story, the era referenced—deeply informs the makeup direction. A minimalist wardrobe may call for stark, architectural makeup. A romantic, textured look might invite softness or experimentation. The best stylists elevate the makeup by creating tension or harmony between clothes and face. It’s a delicate dance of balance and contrast.

A Personal Response to Their Visuals

What I feel when I look at the work of Irving Penn and Phyllis Posnick is a kind of awe—at the clarity, the restraint, the boldness. Their visuals hold your gaze. They whisper rather than shout, yet they leave an indelible mark. As a makeup artist, they remind me that our work can be more than decorative. It can be part of a greater visual language—one that speaks to timelessness, character, and imagination.