March 31, 2026

Genaro Rivas AW’27: Breaking the Glass Ceiling

With “A Glass to Break”, Genaro Rivas transformed fragility into a manifesto, unveiling a collection that challenges traditional structures while reaffirming his commitment to circular design.

For his sixth London show, Genaro Rivas welcomed more than 250 guests into a sumptuous West London townhouse. With “A Glass to Break”, the Peruvian designer explored the resilience and fearlessness required of emerging artists to break through invisible barriers. Understand here: the glass ceiling.

“This collection comes from the heart and from the feeling of breaking into the industry. I mean getting a stockist, getting press, getting the opportunity to keep working in an ecosystem that can be sustainable and where you can actually thrive as a business,” Rivas told us after the show. Here, vulnerability becomes a form of armour. The challenge lay in playing with glass’ material – its delicacy, its sharpness – searching for a crack in the unbreakable while proposing a responsible alternative.

Show resilience and its wounds

With 26 silhouettes and a handful of menswear pieces, the collection questions traditional structures. Proportions are elongated, sleeves stretch endlessly. Garments appear deconstructed and reassembled with meticulous craftsmanship. Rivas merges architectural cuts with fluid movement, symbolising the tension between vulnerability and strength.

The most striking element remains the explosion-like bursts of fabric, looking like the vivid spurt of blood from an open wound. In a bright, visceral red, these faux slashes – sometimes crafted from glass-like biomaterials – puncture an otherwise sober palette like sudden eruptions of emotion. A gripping balance between control and chaos. The headpieces, co-designed by Rivas and Roberta Cucuzza and entirely handcrafted by the milliner, bring sculptural extensions to the silhouettes.

Presenting his first collection since being named UK’s rising star in circular fashion by Vogue Business, Rivas continues to place strong emphasis on materials, upcycled leftovers but also newly developed ones. Here, sustainability moves far beyond greenwashing. “The main thing is to like the clothing. Then if I tell you the story, you see that it’s a fully rounded product, and that’s how I try to relate to sustainability. To show that there can be another way of doing sustainability that can be cool, commercial, and that can actually make an impact on people.”

The show revealed a surprising blend of noble fabrics – mohair, printed silks, denim – with innovative textiles. Developed by pioneering biomaterial companies, the Peruvian designer introduced plant-based leather by Banofi, felt-and-gown insulation by Ponda, and next-generation biomaterials by Savian and BioFluff. “Raw textures meet regenerative innovation… materials that do not replicate the past but insist on a different future,” he explained.

From Home, with Love

Once again, Genaro Rivas made sure to highlight his unbreakable connection with his home country, Peru. “Have you seen the silver bags? Those are made from alpaca fur,” he pointed out. The show, he added, is “dedicated to four Peruvian women whose love and belief sustain this journey.”
“I’m able to work with such an important group and an incredible pool of fabrics and suppliers who are helping me. And Peru is present here with the support of the Peruvian embassy. Peru is always here.”